Letter from Poland.

 

The magic of Zakopane.

13.02.2008

Looking for a change of scenery, Anna Piwowarska heads for Zakopane to delve into its magical, though also somewhat touristy, atmosphere.

The British tourists who were travelling on the same coach as me, from Kraków to Zakopane last week, looked absolutely terrified as we drove through the winter landscape of the Małopolska region. I don’t think this was what they were expecting. Bumpy roads; low, muddy hilltops with no signs of snow; run-down, ugly houses. The moment when they looked most alarmed was when they thought they were getting off in the town of Nowy Targ. Now, I wouldn’t want to offend anyone living in Nowy Targ but it certainly isn’t your dream holiday destination. They breathed a massive sigh of relief when I told them that we weren’t there yet. Once we arrived in Zakopane, I walked with them in the direction of their hotel. As they looked around, it was obvious that their spirits weren’t lifted. Crowds of schoolchildren on their winter break blocked the streets; tacky souvenir stalls lined the main street of Krupówki and pop music blasted out of loud speakers at every corner. Surely this was not the winter wonderland with elements of Polish highlander folklore that they were expecting. Well, that’s the funny thing about Zakopane. On the outside, it’s a tacky tourist hot spot but if you dig a little deeper, you’ll discover that it’s actually one of the most unique places in the world.
Zakopane was founded around the beginning of the 17th century as an agricultural and shepherding settlement. Then, in the middle of the 18th century, when the neighbouring Kuźnice ironworks started processing the iron ore from the Tatras, more and more people started moving to Zakopane. However, it was in the 19th century that a number of fascinating personalities really breathed life into what was still a village in the middle of nowhere. The local priest, Józef Stolarczyk, convinced highlanders to rent out the rooms of their simple but atmospheric wooden houses to tourists. This practice is still popular today and, in fact, most of the locals earn their living this way. When the railway system reached the Tatras in 1899, Zakopane entered its golden era. The renowned Tytus Chałubiński was dubbed “King of the Tatras” after co-founding the Polish Tatra Society and popularizing travel to the area, becoming a much loved patron of the mountain range. A lover of nature, he was one of the first naturalists in the region. Artists Witkacy and Malczewski; writers Iwaszkiewicz and Kasprowicz, and composer Szymanowski were all inspired by the breathtaking views, colourful highlander costumes and interior design, as well as the characteristic music. Many of Poland’s greatest works of art were born from this ‘marriage’ between the simple mountain people and the bohemian artists who waved goodbye to conventional city living and settled amongst them. This is most famously portrayed in the famous play Wesele (The Wedding) by Wyspiański. A similar wedding took place in real life. When the Zakopane muse, the beautiful writer, actress and director, Helena Roj, married Mieczysław Kozłowski; the wedding took place in her modest family home. Many of the guests were members of the elite. They arrived wearing tail-coats and ball gowns and had to walk down a muddy, back street to get to the authentic highlander wedding. Apparently, everyone danced so energetically that the whole house shook and towards the end even a fight broke out. Those who couldn’t take the pace, left pretty quickly. It must have been quite an experience, especially for those who were used to stuffy Warsaw balls.
However, what was and still is at the heart of this fascination with Zakopane is nature. The picturesque Tatra Mountains are the only alpine mountain range in this area of Europe. They are a sort of ‘mini-Alps’ – small enough to hike on and conquer, yet high enough to ski on. They draw crowds both in the winter and the summer. The strong profile of the sleeping knight of Giewont, with the cross on its peak is the image that most vividly represents Poland’s natural beauty. The fact that John Paul II was a great lover of these peaks, an avid hiker and skier in his youth, also adds to the Poles emotional relationship with the Tatra Mountains.
So, is it still possible to feel a little of this Zakopane magic today? Well it’s difficult with two million tourists visiting the town every year (the normal population is a modest 30,000). However, if you keep to certain rules it can be a holiday to remember. First of all, make sure you visit Zakopane out of season – September and October are particularly magical when the mountains are bathed in a nostalgic autumn light. A good tour guide can take you off the main trails to some unknown beauty spots so you’ll avoid the crowds. Staying off the high street Krupówki is also a must if you want to keep sane. Unless, that is, you’re heading to one of the traditional restaurants. Most are overcrowded but the food is always good. Eat the local, extremely calorific delicacies (grilled bacon with mustard and melted oscypek cheese with cranberry sauce are my personal favourites). Make use of the fact that the mountain air gets rid of hangovers by drinking plenty of hot mead or mulled wine. Make sure you take advantage of the rich cultural offerings – the Tatra Museum, the Museum of the Zakopane style, the Rząsa gallery and many more. These take you back in time and through architecture, sculpture and painting will give you a glimpse of Zakopane’s colourful history. And lastly and most importantly, feast your eyes on the views. When looking at the beautiful Tatra Mountains you can imagine that you’ve gone a hundred years back in time – fortunately, they haven’t changed since then, only we have.